Free Patterns and Links
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Newborn Knit Baby Bonnet Pattern
2 oz. thick and thin yarn – 4-5-6 wpi (or a medium spun yarn from my shop – 40ish yards/2 oz.)
Art Yarn anywhere from 8-15 yards (the art yarn is optional and the yardage required can be adjusted according to how much you’d like to use on the trim and for the ties).
US size 15+ for your knitting on the art yarn trim
US Size 10.5 – 11 knitting needle (circulars make binding off easier, straight needles are an extra step)
This piece is simply knit as a flat panel and gathered at the end.
If you have trim yarn choose a needle size that fits the yarn and cast on less stitches. When using my bulky wpi 2-3, I used a size 15 needle and cast on 20. Then I knit one row. The main body of the hat is knit with smaller gauge yarn and after I knit the trim, I switch to my main yarn (4-5-6 wpi) and my smaller needles (size 10.5-11) and I use an increase of k1fb (which stands for knit one front and back)and increase as evenly as possible across the bonnet to end up with the 34 stitches. Do some math or not. Continue on in stockinette st for 6 inches, bind off, weave end through the live stitches and pull to tighten into a tight circle. Load your yarn needle with the end and tie/weave in the end of the yarn on the inside (wrong) side of the bonnet. Add ties and your done!
Here’s more details:
Cable cast on (the link is to knittinghelp.com and is a page of videos..scroll down to find the cable cast on, choose your video by your knitting style) loosely, see the instructions above for trim yarn. If using no trim yarn either cable cast on or use your favorite cast on to make 34 stitches.
Knit in stockinette st. (the link is again to a page with a stockinette video). Stockinette stitch is simply one row of knit stitches and the next row is a row of purl stitches, then repeat. Knitting alternate rows of knit stitches and purl stitches create a fabric that will have a flat side and a bumpy side. The flat side is all of your knit stitches and the bumpy side is all of your purl stitches. Some hat makers like to create patterns with just these two rows.
K1FB instructions are here about half way down the page then choose your style - http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases
Knit stockinette st for 6″. Slip the first stitch on every beginning row. Slipping a stitch is when you simply move the stitch from the left needle to the right needle. For this purpose slip the stitch purl wise. In other words, with your right needle enter the first stitch on your left needle as if you were going to do a purl stitch (not a knit stitch), then just slide it onto the right needle and move on to the next stitch. Although..also..for this purpose it does not matter and you can choose to slip the stitch knit wise, but be consistent through out the entire knitting piece, so your edges are the same.
I recommend knitting loosely and sometimes by pulling the stitches out away from the center knitting area to give the thick and thin yarn stitches room enough to settle in and lay nicely together. And in the body of your piece if you notice your knitting rows are slanted..you need to use a size larger knitting needle..or loosen up your stitches more so your rows knit straight. Fiddle with it and make sure they are not just laying crooked, usually if it’s slight, they will straighten out by blocking the entire hat, or lightly steam iron.
Break the yarn, leaving about 8 inches.
If you are using circular needles – push your finished knitted piece down to the other end of your needles and run the tail yarn though all of the stitches as you move each live stitch off of the needle. Easy peasy with circulars!
If you are using straight needles – two options – you can move all of your stitches onto the other needle so the yarn attached to the ball and the piece is on the bobbed end of the knitting needle, not the pointed end. Then cut the yarn from the ball leaving about 5-6 inches, thread the yarn onto a yarn needle and thread the tail through the live stitches as you move them off of the needle.
Closing the bonnet:
Carefully pull yarn to form a tight circle, and securely weave the end into the inside of the hat. (hint: choose to weave it through purl looking stitches so it is not noticeable from the front, check your work as you go, choose some smaller stitches to thread the yarn through to better hold them tight). And when using my handspun yarn..especially the superwash merino I usually take time to finger twist some twist back into my yarn when it’s time to do any sewing or weaving in and possibly tie it off. I haven’t tied many knots for my baby hats, if you leave the tail longer and weave in the end, usually the wool will just settle and hold it in. You can tie a knot too, strategically hidden on the inside of the hat. Break the yarn leaving about 1-1’1/2 ” and stretch the fabric to pull the end in but not through to the other side. Leave this piece a little longer and it won’t pull through to the other side with use.
For ties, cut as many as you desire and thread through the bonnet corners, with all yarn held together tie an overhand knot. Repeat for the other side. Enjoy your baby bonnet!
Using only stockinette st. will usually cause the trim edge to curl outward. If you want your bonnet edge to lay flat, insert a row or two (you can alternate or not) of purl rows in between your knit rows in the trim area. If your stitches are loose enough and you’ve added a purl row or two, the edge of the bonnet should lay flat. Or you could choose any number of knit stitches that lay flat. And of course my favorite – choose much larger needles and make larger stitches.
worsted weight or any medium yarn
US size 13 knitting needle – circular or straights
Using a double strand (wrap half of your yarn into a second ball) cast on 12 stitches.
row 1 – sl the first stitch purlwise, purl across (move the working yarn to the front of your knitting first)
row 2 – sl the first st and knit across
repeat to these two rows to knit in stockinette stitch for 6 rows (stockinette stitch is knit one row, purl the next row – so all of your flat knitting stiches are on one side, and all the purl stitches are on the other side).
cut yarns leaving 6 inches
Slide piece down to the end of your needle and leave until you are done with making the second side.
Repeat the directions above. Cut a single strand of yarn and thread it through your yarn needle. Then thread this through all of your live stitches as you take them off your knitting needle. Pull tightly and make a knot to secure. Repeat for the other side. Stitch the two pieces together in the middle. Leave some length to your yarn if you’d like to attach the bow to another piece. Add a center button or other bauble weave in your yarn ends onto the purl side (don’t cut the yarn too short, if you leave a little length your woven in end will move with the fabric and not pop through to the finished side of the bow.
These, of course, can be made in different sizes using different gauges of yarn and different size needles and adjusting your number of cast on stitches.
I tested the flower pattern and changed the needle size to 7. This pattern looks way more intimidating than it is. I can knit one petal in under 10 min and I’m a slow knitter. This pattern is for one petal..when you get to the end you will have 3 sts left, use them to begin the pattern again and repeat the pattern 5 times to create 5 petals.
worsted weight yarn
US size 7 knitting needles
row counter – (click it AFTER each row..it tells you where you’ve been)
sl 1 – slip 1 stitch – simply move the stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Insert your right needle into the stitch as if to knit, but don’t knit, just slide it onto the right needle.
k1f&b – make 1 stitch by knitting into the stitch in the front and the back of the same stitch. Also called a Bar Increase, and k1f&b (knit 1 front & back). Knit a stitch, leaving stitch on left needle; knit into the back loop of this stitch. And here is a link to a video - http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases
ssk – slip, slip, knit easy to see here - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGwcYW3GG3M
Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1 – knit
Repeat starts here:
Row 2 – purl
Row 3 – k1, make one (in next stitch), k1 (4 sts)
Row 4 – sl 1, (as if to knit), p to the end of the row
Row 5 – sl 1, (always as if to knit) k1, m1, k1 (5 sts)
Row 6 – sl 1, p to the end of the row
Row 7 – sl 1, make one (always in the next stitch), k to the end of the row (6 sts)
Row 8 – sl 1, purl to the end of the row
Row 9 – sl 1, k3, m1, k1 (7 sts)
Row 10 – sl 1, purl to the end of the row
Row 11 – sl 1, m1, knit to the end of the row ( 8 sts)
Row 12 – sl 1, purl to the end of the row
Row 13 – ssk, knit to the end of the row (7 sts)
Row 14 – sl 1 purl to the end of the row
Row 15 – ssk, knit to the end of the row (6 sts)
Row 16 – sl 1, purl to the end of the row
Row 17 – ssk, knit to the end of the row (5 sts)
Row 18 – sl 1, purl to the end of the row
Row 19 – ssk, knt to the end fof the row (4 sts)
Row 20 – sl 1, purl to the end of the row
Row 21 – ssk, knit to the end of the row (3 sts)
Row 22 – sl 1, purl to the end of the row
As from above: This pattern is for one petal..when you get to the end you will have 3 sts left, use them to begin and repeat the pattern 5 times to create 5 petals. Cut yarn leaving 12-14″ of yarn. Bind off the last three stitches. You can make a little slip knot to hold the end firm on the purl side of the fabric. Lay your piece flat and you will see the messy side with the decrease edges and the other side will have nicely formed V’s. Let the V’s be the outer edge of the petal. With yarn threaded onto yarn needle, using a basting stitch thread the yarn through the messy decreased edge side of the piece. Gather your petal as you go to see it’s effect. Let the outside of the petal curl under. As you work it you will see the flower petal start to form. Adjust the petals so the thin places sort of folded once one flower petal will have both sides un-tucked. Fiddle with the petals until you have them arranged the way you like them and then sew it together on the purl side with your yarn. A stitch here and there where you want the petals to stay helps sometimes too. Before sewing with my handspun yarn, finger twist in more twist and try to hold it in as you do your finish sewing, or stop and add more finger twists. When you are using “live” twist (unblocked yarn)..you control it as you work with your stitches and finger twists at the end. If the yarn is going to break it’s here where you are tugging and trying to pull tight knots. Superwash merino without added finger twists will just break. It is the nature of the yarn, it is slow spun, fat, lofty, yummy yarn. Finger twists are the answer. If using handspun yarn, you don’t have to use handpun yarn for this gathering up. Cut and weave in your handspun and use another lighter weight commercial spun yarn in a color that will blend in, or a heavier weight crochet thread will work too. Be careful pulling too tightly with a smaller gauge yarn..it’s easy to see those stitches amoung the lofty fat wool stitches. This red flower is about 3 -4 inches across. Leave some length to your yarn if you’d like to attach the flower to another piece, or add one of commercial yarn to the back. Attach a button or other bauble for the center and enjoy your flower!
You can change your flower by using different gauge yarn and different size needles and by increasing the number of knit and purl stitches you include in each row. Just keep track and increase and decrease evenly down the rows.
I worked up this little flower and even simpler bow and started with a 2 oz. skein of Bunny Snuggles handspun yarn. For the flower I used the pattern above and a US size 10 knitting needle. I used about 28 yards for the flower..(but I am still trying to get it down exactly for you). I used heavy duty thread to sew it all together and added the white button. For the simple bow I cast on 10 and using the same yarn and needle and stockinette stitch, (row 1 knit, row 2 purl, repeat) knit a small rectangle, bind off on a purl row. Pinch the center together and sewed tightly with strong thread, and added the button. :)
Home Made Laundry Soap
A word about home made laundry soap. There are many recipes online just google search them. This is one a friend gave a friend gave my mother and she gave to me. We all like it and use it regularly.
5 gallon bucket with an easy on off lid – I found one for paint at Lowes.
Bar Fels Naptha – is stinky and strong, keep it wrapped in a plastic bag until you are ready to use it.
Washing Soda – Arm and Hammer Washing Soda – I found at Walmart.
Borax – I also found this at Walmart.
Laundry Soap Recipe -
1 Fels Naptha Laundry Bar – I found mine at Walmart, but have also seen them at hardware stores.
1 Cup washing soda – I bought Arm and Hammer (specifically “washing” soda not “baking” soda).
1/2 Cup Borax (this can be lessened but I don’t know why you would).
1. Grate Naptha bar and melt in 4 cups of water on the stove (I used the microwave the first time, but it gets soo very hot I just use the stove now). This takes a bit and lots of stirring, not for fear of burning, but to get the pieces to dissolve takes some time.
2. Pour into a 5 gallon bucket and fill 1/2 way with hot tap water.
3. Add soda and borax and stir until all is disolved. Then fill the rest of the bucket with hot tap water – to make about 5 gallons total.
4. Cover with the lid and let it rest over night.
5. Next day, stir well and fill a dispenser 1/2 way with the detergent mix you made and 1/2 way with hot tap water.
Use 5/8 cup in top loading and 1/4 cup in front loading washing machine.
U.S. size K-10 1/2 crochet hook
40 yards ilashdesigns thick and thin yarn
acrylic yarn ( a few yards for trim)
Using ilashdesigns yarn Chain 40, Sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Row 1: Sc across, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn.
Row 3:Ch 2, dc across, turn.
Repeat rows 1-3 two more times.
Row 10: Ch1, sc across, turn.
Row 11: Ch1, sc across.
Ch1, Pick up loop from each stitch across. This will leave you with 39 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. This will create the round back for your hat.
With your acrylic yarn, crab stitch around the trim of your hat.
(Instead of crocheting right to left, crochet from left to right, this is the crab stitch.)
Using a few strands of ilashdesigns yarn and your acrylic make tassels on the ends of the trim of your hat.
Make a magic loop.
Ch 1, sc into loop, ch 2 , sc into loop, sc into loop, ch2, sc into loop, sc into loop, ch2, sc into loop, sc into loop, ch2, sc into loop, sc into loop, ch2, join into ch1.
Ch 1, (counts as first hdc) 4 hdc’s into ch2, sc into sc, *5 hdc’s into ch2, sc into sc* repeat to end.
Using your acrylic crab stitch around the trim of the flower.
Attach flower to hat.
Felt Dyer Balls
I’ve been wanting to add these here for quite awhile. Dyer balls can help save you money by drawing out moisture and separating the fabrics. I have read that 3 balls will save you significant reduction on your drying time and that 6 will give you up to 50% reduction. They work by letting air able to pass between the layers and therefore reduce drying time. I tried them on several different types of laundry loads and I found they are best used for my family in loads of sheets, towels, jeans and cloth diapers. I use them in loads of heavy fabric. I didn’t find they did too much for reducing static so for garments with that concern I just use my dryer sheets.
First thing you need is some felt-able wool. I choose a non-mix wool of merino or similar wool. I haven’t tried mixes or long wools like bfl or alpaca and would love to hear from anyone about using different wool. Wool that has been superwash treated will not work.
Contact me if you need wool.
For about 4 inch size balls, I weighed out 1.3 oz. of wool and proceeded to stuff it into the end of a nylon stocking. Stuff it in there good and tight and then tie a knot and repeat making a line of balls. Throw it into the washing machine on hot with a load of towels or jeans (that are not heavily soiled). Let the machine run it’s cycles. Throw the line of balls still in the stocking into the dryer with your load of jeans. Let it run it’s cycle. I ran my balls through 2 washer/dryer cycles and then removed the nylon stocking. At first I tried to untie the knot and if you have lots of patience you can, or you can just cut it off and discard it.
Enjoy your dyer balls!
And Enjoy!!! We’d love to hear from you and Always, Always, Always love to see your creations!
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